My sign from Charding arrived in a large box and pretty well packed.

The sign came with the power supply for the BetaBrite and and nothing else.

In order to use the BetaBrite sign, you will need a serial-to-BetaBrite cable. This cable will allow you to program the sign via your computer using the HTBrite software that is described later in this tutorial.

You may also want to purchase a remote control for the sign so that you can create your own messages and graphics.

I have created some software for use with this sign or any other BetaBrite sign.

Try searching the web. You can find some free software to control the sign. As an alternative,you purchase BetaBrite Messenger or AlphaNet though an Adaptive Micro distributor. Please be aware that BetaBrite Messenger does not support uploading custom graphics.

Another option would to write your own software using the Adaptive Sign Protocol and your favorite programming language.

Download the BetaBrite Manual
Download the Adaptive Sign Protocol
Download C#.net Example Source
Download VB.net Example Source

This is the sign I received. The signs are not new and over time it seems that the plastic used for the front panel has been discolored. The graphic is screen printed onto the sign's face so the entire front panel will need to be replaced anyhow.

In this picture you can see the the BetaBrite is off center. This is because the mounting brackets were slightly bent during shipping. These are very easy to bend back into place and you shouldn't be worried if your sign arrives in a similar condition.

The black box on the top right is the power supply for the Betabrite.

Here is a shot of the BetaBrite power supply. It had been attached to a metal plate via double sided foam tape. The metal plate is then attached to the sign with 2 self tapping screws. The power supply was attached simply for convenience of the store operator, but you will probably want to remove the power supply to create a "cleaner" look.

In this picture I have removed the front panel of the sign. As you can see the sign uses 2 florescent bulbs as a light source. The position of these bulbs will help light the movie mylars. We will be positioning the mylar directly in front on these bulbs.

In this picture you can also see the Axis sign on the back of the display. Both sides of this sign show the backlit Axis logo. The BetaBrite sign is NOT double-sided so you must choose which way you want it to face.

In this tutorial we will be creating a double-sided mylar display but you may cover or paint the rear panel if you wish to use only one side.

Keep in mind that these signs are used so they may have some cosmetic imperfections. In this picture you can see the scratches on the metal housing of the BetaBrite. If you wish you could disassemble the BetaBrite and paint it but personally I wouldn't worry about it. You're probably the only one who will ever notice.

The first thing you'll want to do is replace the backlit panel.The actual size of the panel is 12.125" x 24.375" and is about .07" - .09" thick. You can use any white plastic type material as long as it allows light though. Since 12.125"x24.375" is an odd size this piece may cost you more. Instead you can use a 12x24 piece but it won't fit snug like the original sign.

I used a 12" x 24" piece of .07" PETG. I personally like PETG better than acrylic because it is cheaper and won't really crack like acrylic, but either material will do.

Custom Display will sell you PETG cut to size at a reasonable price. They are located in Canada so delivery times to the US might take a little while but they do a great job and are very helpful. Also Check out there PEZ and other displays on ebay.

You will also need a piece of clear material that is 2.25" x 24". This material also came from Custom Display.

PETG comes with one side covered in a protective sheet as you can see here. This is the clear center piece shown above.

Here's an image of the sign turned on with the new backlit panel.

Grab yours3elf a marker. It doesn't need to be a dry erase. Actually a Sharpie would be better I just didn't have one handy.

Now insert 2 large sized mylar into the sign. Make sure the one on the top is pressed all the way up on the sings channel and make sure the one on the bottom is pressed all the way down.

Also make sure that the new backlit panel is installed with the protective film facing out because we are about to draw on it.

You will need 8 sets of these pieces to make this sign. Each set contains a tin rubber washer, a .5" long black oxide screw and a nylon insert lock nut for the screw.

I've found that .5" screws work very well. I've also changes to using nylon washers because there is a washer that is about 1/2 the thickness of the rubber washers.

Measure 2" from the left side of the sign and lay one of the washers on the panel. Make sure it is butted up against the mylar. Now mark the center of the washer with your marker. Repeat this set for the lower mylar and for the right side of the sign.

When you are done you will have 4 dots marked on the panel. You will need to drill holes in the panels where these dots are.

If you are going to use both sides of the sign, mark another backlit panel the same way.

When you are done you should have 4 holes. 2 On each end.

With the protective coating facing outward, center the smaller piece on top of the backlit panel as shown and mark the holes. This will give you a rough idea where to drill the smaller piece.

Drill the 4 holes in the smaller piece.

Now test fit the pieces. Assembly should be in this order.

Most likely the holes will not be perfectly aligned. You may need to bore out the holes in the smaller piece in order for the two pieces to fit together correctly.

Here is a close-up of the assembled test fitting.

Here is the sign with the mylars inserted. You can see how the washers butt up against the mylars. The washers also create a groove for the mylars to sit in.

You will also need a decal like this. This decal will provide you with the parts you need to finish both the backlit panels on a single double sided sign.

Email me if you would like a set of decals for your sign. I can also put any custom message or use a custom font if you desire. The cost is $10 shipped within the continental US.

Here is the Adobe Illustrator file of the decal in case you have a vinyl cutter and want to make your own. All I ask is you don't sell the decals.

Here is an image of the final decal. The top few rows of decals will be used on the short edges of the backlit panel. The middle rows will be used on the long edges.

The "now showing" and "coming soon" parts will be used on the smaller clear piece.

There are enough pieces on this sheet to produce one full double-sided backlit sign. There are also some extra strips just in case.

At this time you can remove the protective film from the smaller clear piece.

Mix up a solution of 1 cups of water with 1 drop of dish soap. Apply this to the clear strip. This will buy you a little time while you make sure the decal is straight. Don't use much of this solution though!

Now peel the wax paper off the back of the decal when you are ready to apply it. Now lay the decal on the strip and make sure it is centered. When it's positioned, gently (but firmly) use a credit card or a squeegee to press the excess water out from underneath.

Let this sit over night.

Gently peel away the application tape that is still over the sticker. This will leave behind the just the decal.

Your finished piece should look like this.

Now wrap the strips of vinyl around the edges of the entire large backlit panel. These strips will help blackout any light around the edges.

Reassemble the entire sign and insert your mylars.

Remember you need to trim about 1/4" off the ends of the mylars to make them fit.

Here is an image of the completed "now showing" side. Now repeat the steps using the "coming soon" decal and you're done.

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